Care sheet

The crested gecko, scientifically known as "Correlophus ciliatus," is an arboreal lizard species native to the southern region of New Caledonia. Initially believed to be extinct, this species was rediscovered by Robert Seipp during an expedition in 1994. The Latin name "ciliatus" is derived from the word "cilia," which means fringe or eyelashes, reflecting its distinctive appearance. Consequently, it is also commonly referred to as the eyelash gecko.

Crested geckos exhibit a diverse range of colors, morphs, and traits, collectively known as "morphs." These unique combinations can result in visually captivating animals. Renowned for their ease of care in captivity, many keepers choose to breed these lizards and focus on cultivating specific colors, morphs or traits. To assist novice keepers in navigating the diversity of morphs, we have included a basic figure showcasing the most common morphs.

Crested geckos are an arboreal species. This means they love to climb and hide in bushes and trees. They are crepuscular, meaning they're most active between dusk and dawn. Their diet consists of a variety of insects and rotten fruits. Being solitary and territorial, they typically only interact for breeding purposes, otherwise maintaining individual territories.

Selecting the appropriate enclosure for a crested gecko is crucial for its well-being and can be categorized as bio-active or non-bio-active. Given the gecko's natural inclination to climb and jump, a taller enclosure is more beneficial than a wider one. At Allstar Geckos, we recommend a minimum size of 18x18x24 inches (45x45x60 cm) for an adult crested gecko, though larger enclosures are preferable.

Maintaining humidity is essential for crested geckos, which will be further detailed under the humidity section, necessitating an enclosure with effective humidity retention. Additionally, crested geckos are sensitive to drafts, it is important to ensure the enclosure lacks wide cracks and is not placed near open windows.

Considering these factors, an enclosure made of glass, acrylic, or PVC with a mesh top or a wide ventilation strip at the top and front is ideal. Brands such as Exo Terra offer enclosures that meet these requirements.

Decorating the enclosure

Because the crested gecko loves to climb and hide, it’s important to fill up the enclosure with branches, cork bark and plants. A list of safe plants for crested geckos will be provided at the end of this paragraph. It’s perfect when the enclosure looks a bit cluttered so the gecko has many places to hide. When they feel secure in their enclosure, they will come out of hiding more and make for a perfect display animal.

You can choose to go bio-active. This means you house the gecko in the most natural way possible, with real soil, real plants, real cork or wood structures and small insects (isopods and springtails) to ensure a natural self-sustaining ecosystem.

Bio-active enclosure

To establish a bio-active enclosure, follow these steps:

1. Begin placing your (self made) background against the back wall.
2. Place a thin layer, approximately 1 inch (1 cm), of hydroballs at the bottom of the enclosure. These will absorb any excess moisture from watering the plants or misting the enclosure.
3. Place a drainage layer on top of the hydroballs to separate the substrate from the hydroballs.
4. Add a substantial layer of substrate on top of the drainage layer, approximately 4 inch (10 cm). You can choose between soil or coco peat.
5. Plant the selected vegetation in the substrate.
6. Incorporate horizontal branches or cork bark to provide climbing or resting opportunities for the gecko.
7. Make sure the enclosure’s sidewalls are adequately covered for example with artificial vines.

Non-bio-active enclosure

You can also choose to go non-bio-active. This means you keep the gecko on a honeycomb mat or paper towels with artificial plants and climbing structures. Neither is obligated as long as you make sure the gecko has plenty of space, climbing opportunities and ventilation. At Allstar Geckos, we keep all of our (sub)adult geckos in bio-active enclosures.

Safe plants

• Aglaonema (Aglaonema spp.)
• Bromeliads (Bromeliaceae)
• Dracaena (Fragrans compacta)
• Elephant Ears (Alocasia)
• Ferns (Adiantum)
• Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
• Snake plants (Sansevieria)
• Umbrella Plant (Schefflera arboricola)
• Zebra Plant (Calathea zebrina)

How many geckos

Crested geckos are inherently solitary and territorial animals, making them unsuitable for cohabitation. We strongly advise against housing multiple crested geckos together. When housed together, two male geckos will absolutely engage in aggressive confrontations, potentially resulting in severe injury or fatality. Housing a male and a female is also discouraged, as the male's frequent breeding attempts can exhaust the female, leading to health issues of the female.

Similarly, two females may also exhibit territorial aggression towards each other. Conflict can arise not only over territory but also over food and preferred resting areas. Often people will point out two geckos living peacefully together and lying on top of each other. Lying on top of each other is not cute. One gecko is being dominated by the other. Fights between geckos can result in serious injuries, including loss of limbs, significant wounds and sometimes death. Therefore, it’s imperative to house crested geckos individually for their well-being and safety.

Humidity

Maintaining appropriate humidity levels is essential for the health of a crested gecko, with recommended levels ranging from 40%-60% during the day and a nighttime spike of 90%-100%. The frequency of enclosure misting should be adjusted based on the substrate type and the ambient humidity and temperature in your environment. While substrates like soil or sphagnum moss retain humidity effectively, paper towels or honeycomb mats tend to dry out more quickly.

A spray bottle can be utilized for misting the enclosure, and a digital hygrometer is recommended to accurately monitor humidity levels within the enclosure. Adequate humidity is also crucial for the gecko's shedding process. If your crested gecko has trouble shedding you can try providing a shedding box filled with damp sphagnum moss to assist in this natural process. Additionally, a lukewarm bath in a plastic container, with the lid on top, water level reaching up to the gecko's belly and feet, can help soften and remove stuck shed.

Temperature

In their native habitat of New Caledonia, crested geckos experience temperatures ranging from 70 to 86 Fahrenheit (21 to 30 degrees Celsius) during the summer and 64 to 75 Fahrenheit (18 to 24 degrees Celsius) in the winter. Therefore, in most domestic settings, crested geckos can be maintained at room temperature, provided it remains between 64 and 79 Fahrenheit (18 and 26 degrees Celsius). While summer temperatures in New Caledonia can reach up to 86 Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius), crested geckos are susceptible to heat stress and can succumb to heat exhaustion with temperatures above 79 Fahrenheit (26 degrees Celsius).

Regulating the temperature

For those residing in warmer climates, it is essential to regulate the room temperature where the gecko is housed to ensure it remains within the optimal range. Conversely, individuals in cooler climates should take measures to elevate the room temperature to the recommended levels. Utilizing a digital thermometer within the enclosure can assist in monitoring the temperature accurately. We advise against using heating mats as they do not effectively raise the ambient air temperature.

Food

Balanced diet

When kept in captivity it is important to offer the crested gecko a well balanced diet. Fortunately, several companies offer formulated diets designed to meet the nutritional requirements of crested geckos, encompassing essential calories, vitamins, and minerals. These specialized diets, known as Crested Gecko Diets, are available in powder form which need to be mixed with water. It will then transform into a porridge-like consistency that most geckos love to eat. Crested Gecko Diets are available in various flavors.

At Allstar Geckos, we incorporate a range of Crested Gecko Diets into our feeding regimen, including products from Pangea and Gecko Nutrition. Our geckos particularly love flavors such as Pangea Fruit Mix, Pangea Growth and Breed, Gecko Nutrition Wildberry and Gecko Nutrition Dragon Fruit. Despite the moisture content in these diets, it remains essential to provide crested geckos with a separate source of fresh water for daily hydration. Some geckos may also consume water droplets from leaves or enclosure ornaments when misting.

Insects

In addition to formulated diets, offering live insects is beneficial as they provide supplementary calcium, calories, and enrichment through hunting. Suitable feeder insects include crickets, dubia roaches, grasshoppers, mealworms, wax worms, and black soldier flies. It is crucial to ensure that the size of the feeder insect does not exceed the width of the gecko's head to prevent potential choking hazards. Both Crested Gecko Diets and feeder insects can be sourced from reptile specialty stores, specialized pet shops, or reptile expos.

When feeding live insects, it is important to "gut load" them, meaning you make sure the insects eat a healthy diet so when the gecko consumes the insects, it will take in extra nutrition. Furthermore, dusting the insects with a calcium supplement is recommended. Calcium supplements come with vitamin D3 or without vitamin D3. It’s paramount to know the difference and so we will explain more in the UVB section .

No sugary gel

Many stores offer gecko cups filled with a sugary gel, which may appeal to crested geckos but lacks nutritional value. Avoid feeding these cups and instead focus on providing Crested Gecko Diet.

Nutrition plan

At Allstar Geckos, we recommend feeding Crested Gecko Diet every other day and offering live insects twice a week. For adult geckos, a serving typically consists of 1.5 teaspoons of Crested Gecko Diet and 4-5 insects, depending on appetite. Younger geckos or subadults should be fed 0.5-1 teaspoon of Crested Gecko Diet and 2-3 insects per feeding.

Ensuring your crested gecko consumes its Crested Gecko Diet is paramount, as it contains all essential nutrients for their health. If your gecko prefers live insects over the diet, temporarily cease insect feeding until the gecko resumes accepting the formulated diet, because it contains everything the gecko needs to stay healthy.

Crested Gecko Diet can remain in the enclosure for up to 48 hours. However, in overly humid conditions, it should be removed after 24 hours to prevent food molding.

Diseases

Crested geckos are reasonably healthy lizards but they can suffer from a couple of things:

• Metabolic bone disease (MBD)
• Impaction
• Parasites
• Mites
• Floppy Tail Syndrome

Metabolic bone disease (MBD)

The body lacks calcium and/or vitamin D3 and takes nutrients from the skeleton. The skeleton will eventually collapse on itself. MBD is recognized by deformed limbs, a deformed backbone or a wavy tail. A wavy tail can also be a sign of dehydration.

Impaction

The bowel is blocked and can’t pass feces, caused by eating substrate or feeding a wrong diet.

Parasites

Crested geckos can suffer from gastrointestinal parasites such as nematodes (worms) and protozoa (single-celled microscopic animals) such as coccidia, amoeba and flagellates. Signs of parasites are diarrhea and visible worms in the feces.

Mites

Crested geckos can also suffer from mites. You will see moving black dots on the geckos scales.

Floppy Tail Syndrome

Floppy Tail Syndrome usually isn’t life threatening to the gecko. It can occur in every gecko, without it being hereditary or diet related. Symptoms are that the gecko wears its tail bent over its back when the gecko hangs upside down. It makes for a less aesthetic look on the gecko but it's not a bad thing. However, it is wise to monitor female geckos, as severe cases of Floppy Tail Syndrome can potentially impact their hip function and hinder egg passage.

Crested geckos are crepuscular, primarily active during the twilight hours between dusk and dawn. Despite their shade-dwelling nature, residing in bushes and trees, they do benefit from exposure to daylight and UVB. Some geckos may even seek out basking areas with higher temperature gradients.

Day-night cycle

To accommodate their light requirements, it is essential to establish a consistent day-night cycle and provide UVB. LED strips or bulbs can be used for daylight simulation, but it is crucial to position them outside the enclosure to prevent potential burns, as these lighting sources can generate significant heat. Mounting the strip or bulb above the enclosure ensures a temperature gradient, allowing the gecko to choose between warmer and cooler areas.

Lighting plan

It is advisable to use only (extra cool) white light, avoiding colored lights such as red or blue, which can be detrimental to the gecko's eyesight. During summer, the lighting should be on for 10 to 12 hours per day, while in winter, 8 to 10 hours are sufficient. Using a timer can help maintain a consistent lighting schedule.

Vitamin D3

Crested geckos require UVB to support their physiological needs, particularly for the synthesis of vitamin D3. In their natural habitat, they are exposed to sunlight, which facilitates this process by providing UVB. Vitamin D3 plays a crucial role in bone development, contributing to the formation and maintenance of their skeletal structure. Without adequate vitamin D3, geckos are susceptible to metabolic bone disease, a condition characterized by skeletal degradation and potential collapse.

Positioning the lighting

When incorporating UVB lighting, it should be positioned above the mesh top or ventilation strip of the enclosure to ensure effective UVB penetration. Avoid placing the light on a glass surface, as UVB rays cannot travel through glass. UVB bulbs may degrade over time, losing their efficacy, so it is recommended to replace them every 6 months to 1 year. An UVB meter can be utilized to monitor the output of the lighting accurately.

Alternative for UVB lighting

Alternatively, if UVB lighting is not provided, feeder insects should be dusted with a calcium powder that contains D3. At Allstar Geckos, we use a 24-watt LED strip that emits extra cool white light (6000-6500 kelvin) and UVB lighting from Arcadia, specifically designed for shade-dwelling reptiles. Since crested geckos do not hibernate, both standard and UVB lighting can be provided throughout the year.

Crested geckos can often easily get used to being handled, but they often prefer short interactions and may show discomfort if removed from their enclosure for too long. Some may not enjoy handling at all. If a gecko squeaks, hisses, or bites, it's best to return it to its enclosure. Crested geckos can voluntarily drop their tails as a defense mechanism. Unlike some lizards, their tails don't grow back, but they can live healthily without them. Crested geckos without a tail are often referred to as "Frog Butts."

When handling, be cautious as they might jump or move suddenly. Gently guide them to walk along your hands, similar to handling a hamster. After handling your gecko, make sure you wash your hand properly because reptiles can carry salmonella. Make sure your gecko doesn’t come close to your eyes and mouth.

Identify the sex

If you choose to breed your crested gecko, first make sure you have a male and a female. A male is easily recognized because of the hemipenal bulge, also known as cresticles. Males also have two rows of femoral pores (little black dots) between their hind legs, located near the base of the tail. The scales between the hind legs of the male can also look waxy and overlap each other. Females can also have a little bulge, but never as big as the male hemipenal bulge. Females can also have some little black dots, called pseudo pores. Again, these pores aren’t as pronounced as male pores.

Age and weight

The male and female need to be fully grown before they can be bred. Both need to also be at least two years of age. Weight is also very important. Females need to be 45 grams or more before breeding. Males 40 grams or more. You can use a digital kitchen scale to weigh your gecko. To make sure your female has enough calcium to produce healthy eggs, check her calcium sacks. These are located in the mouth at the throat. Calcium sacks need to look big and round.

Breeding environment

When introducing a male and female crested gecko for breeding purposes, it is advisable to select a neutral environment to minimize stress and ensure a smoother introduction. Alternatively, placing the male in the female's familiar enclosure can also be effective, the female will experience less stress because of her normal environment. The male will typically be very happy in the female's enclosure because of her smell and his will to breed.

Breeding behavior

Crested geckos breed rather violently. The male will grab hold of the female through biting her, this is normal behavior. The bites can cause little wounds. As long as these don’t get infected, it’s all okay. The male will lock his hemipene in the female, this can take upon 30 minutes. After the pairing, the male will lick his hemipene before retracting it. Make sure the hemipene will retract back into the body, when it stays out this is called a prolapse and your male needs to be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible for a prolapse can cause the hemipene to dry out. After that it needs to be amputated to prevent necrosis.

Laying eggs

After being paired, the female will typically lay one set of two eggs after 30 or 40 days. Sometimes she will only lay one egg. She will continu laying for a couple of months, every 30 to 40 days. The eggs will look pearly white in the shape of a little football. To lay eggs she will either need a soil layer of 4 inch (10 cm), in a bio-active enclosure, or a lay box, in a non-bio-active enclosure. A lay box can be made by having a small plastic box filled with soil and damp sphagnum moss. The female will dig around the enclosure to find the perfect spot to lay her eggs. You can cautiously dig them out. Make sure to check under cork or in plants as well.

Fertile eggs

Check fertility

To check if the eggs are fertile, you can candle them. You can use a flashlight and shine through the egg. If the egg is fertile, a red ring can be seen. This is called the cheerio.

Incubating the eggs

If all goes well, a baby gecko will form inside the egg. Utilize a suitable container, such as a plastic cup, or a digital incubator to incubate the eggs. When selecting a cup, ensure it provides adequate ventilation by drilling a couple of holes in it. Fill the cup with substrate; typically a mixture of vermiculite or perlite and water. At Allstar Geckos, we recommend using isopod cups, since these already come with ventilation, with a ratio of 30 grams of vermiculite to 30 ml of water. The vermiculite should be sufficiently moist, but not excessively wet. Place the eggs within the mixture, ensuring they are covered by approximately 75% with the vermiculite.

Incubating temperature

The eggs can be incubated at room temperature, between 70-75 degrees fahrenheit/20-24 degrees celsius. The lower the temperature, the longer it takes to hatch the eggs. Then again, more time in the egg makes for stronger and bigger hatchlings. After 60-120 days the eggs will hatch.

After hatch

When the eggs hatch, put the hatchling gecko in a small glass/acrylic enclosure with a mesh top or a small plastic tub with ventilation holes drilled at the sides and top. At Allstar Geckos we use acrylic enclosures and small plastic tubs.

Make sure you keep the hatchling on a honeycomb mat or paper towel since hatchlings have a very small digestive system. If they swallow a bit of soil, they can get impacted easily and die. Keep the hatchlings separate from the parents and each other. The parents will see the hatchling as a small snack and will eat it. Siblings will nip at each other, causing wounds or unnecessary tail drops. Please monitor the humidity levels carefully. Elevated humidity can make hatchlings more susceptible to respiratory infections.

Important: crossing morphs

Crested geckos usually breed easy. You can almost breed any morph to another morph except for two:

• Lilly white x lilly white can cause a super form of lilly white when the gene is passed by both parents. This is 100% fatal. The offspring will either die in the egg or die a few hours after hatching. If you want to breed for lilly white, make sure to always pair a lilly white to a non-lilly white.
• Cappuccino x cappuccino can cause a super form of cappuccino. The offspring will hatch out alive but it will exhibit undersized nostrils. Over time, it will develop deformities in its limbs and body structure, experience respiratory difficulties, and ultimately succumb to these health issues.

Troubleshooting with breeding

Non fertile eggs

It could be that the lock between the male and female wasn’t successful. You can wait for another set of eggs to see if the second round is fertile. If not, you can choose to re-pair the male and female.

Female is not laying eggs

If your female is getting bigger/looks fatter but is not laying eggs, it could be she is egg-bound. This means the eggs are stuck inside the body. This needs immediate veterinary attention to remove the eggs. If the female is not getting bigger, it could be that she reabsorbed the eggs.

Eggs don’t look pearly white

Eggs can look a couple of different ways. Normally the eggs will look a nice color of white, with a smooth surface. If the female lacks calcium, the eggs can look a bit brown or ribbed. Make sure to give the female some extra calcium with her next feeding.

Hatching too early

Sometimes a hatchling can hatch (too) early. Sometimes the egg is incubated at a too high temperature but sometimes we don’t know why. A premature hatchling can still grow into a healthy gecko but it takes a lot of extra care. But sometimes you have to be prepared that a hatchling doesn’t make it.

Hatching takes a long time

As stated, crested gecko eggs can be incubated up until 120 days, sometimes even longer. Leave the eggs alone and let nature run its course. If the eggs mold or smell funny, then you know the egg is not fertile or the hatchling died inside. A little mold can be formed because of too wet substrate. Gently brush the mold off the egg and let the substrate dry out a little and leave the egg alone. If the egg starts sweating it could it’s close to hatching. If an egg cracks a little before the end of incubation, put a tiny piece of damp paper towel on the crack to prolong the incubation period.

Baby doesn't hatch

Hatchlings will develop an egg tooth which they use to break the shell of the egg. Sometimes the egg tooth isn’t formed or the shell of the egg is too thick and the hatchling drowns in the egg.

Deformities

Hatchlings can also hatch with (severe) deformities, for example an extra toe, two heads or organs growing outside the body. An extra toe is called polydactyl and is not life threatening. Extra heads or organs growing outside the body usually make for a non viable baby.

Female is not receptive

Sometimes a female is not receptive to the male and will attack him. Put the male back into his own enclosure and give the female some weeks of rest before trying again. If after a couple of tries the female still isn’t receptive you can try for another male. Sometimes the female just can’t be bred.

Virgin animals

Virgin crested geckos can be a little clumsy with breeding. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t get a visual lock immediately. The male will know what to do, sometimes he just needs a little bit more time.

We hope you enjoyed reading this document and feel confident purchasing or taking care of a crested gecko. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us.